As the rainy season comes to a close in Japan, several things emerge along with the scorching sun: cicadas, peaches and, of course, sunflowers! If you’re in and around the Tokyo area, check out the gardens below which offer a dazzling display of these flowers from late July throughout all of August. 

Showa Memorial Park

© Photo by Showa Memorial Park

Tachikawa City’s Showa Memorial Park is a glorious green space that belies its convenient location within the metropolitan area. While the park has a myriad of summer activities from barbecuing to robotics that take place there, their sunflowers, which bloom from late July to mid-August, have long been held in high esteem. On the west side of the park, there are two flower gardens in which to see sunflowers. There are many varieties of the flower to be viewed and you can even get up close to them for sunny photo ops via small pathways into the sunflower fields. The mini Sunfinity type is always popular, as are hybrid sunflowers whose height can surpass even the tallest humans. For an extra flower reward, this park also has a lovely collection of dahlias that bloom at the same time as the sunflowers.

• Hours: Open every day, 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m.
• Address: 3173 Midori-cho, Tachikawa-shi, Tokyo
• Price: High school students and adults (¥450); Seniors (¥210); Junior high school students and younger (free)
• Access: Take the JR Chuo Line and get off at Tachikawa Station. From there, transfer to the Ome Line and stop at Nishi-Tachikawa Station where the park is a short walk away.

Musashi Murayama Sunflower Garden

© Photo by iStock: zu-kuni

This aptly named Sunflower Garden has the most sunflower blooms in Tokyo with hundreds of thousands available for viewing when in full bloom. Among the tall stocks that dominate the space, you’ll find several varieties to seek out. Big Smiles are relatively short in height, standing up to 50 centimeters at their tallest and are characterized by their bright yellow petals surrounding a black center. Clarets can grow to 150-180 centimeters in height and are distinctive for their striking red wine-colored petals. Named after the famed painting by Claude Monet, the Monet hybrid sunflower variety comes in several colors such as reds, yellows, roses, creams and pastels, and mimic a watercolor work of art. Drop by this garden through to the middle of August for a retreat from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo.

• Hours: Open every day, 9 a.m.-4 p.m.
• Address: 1460, Midorigaoka, Musashimurayama-shi, Tokyo
• Price: Free!
• Access: Take the Tama Monorail and get off at Kamikitadai Station. The park is about ten minutes away on foot. 

Musashi Kyuryo National Government Park (Saitama)

© Photo by Musashi Kyuryo National Government Park

Opened in 1974 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Meiji government, Musashi Kyuryo National Government Park features many types of terrain and activities for the whole family to enjoy. In addition to the recreational facilities and walking and cycling courses, the park has large gardens showcasing seasonal flowers. During the summer months, visitors can check out the 3,500 square meter tract reserved for 5,000 sunflowers. Unlike many other sunflower varieties, the Sunfinities grown here are a hybrid species that can bloom all season long and have multiple stems which provide several blooms per plant.

• Hours: Open every day, 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m.
• Address: 1920 Yamata, Namegawa, Hiki District, Saitama
• Price: High school students and adults (¥450); Seniors (¥210); Junior high school students and younger: free of charge 
• Access: From Ikebukuro Station, take the Tobu Tojo Line and get off at Shinrin-Koen Station on the Tobu Tojo Line. Take a taxi or a direct bus to the park from the North Exit.

Akebo no Yama Agricultural Park (Chiba)

© Photo by iStock: akikana99

This beautiful park is a well-known flower viewing spot all year round, owing to its wide array of seasonal blossoms, like spring tulips and fall cosmos. From mid-July to late August, its fields explode in golden petals as the nearly 800 sunflowers burst into bloom against the blue sky. Perhaps the most famous Instagram photographs of this park are featuring its large sunflowers juxtaposed with its famous windmill in the background for a picturesque summertime shot. While here, you can also enjoy a children’s pool, water misters, water slides, photo spots and a photo contest during the late summer.

• Hours: Open every day except Mondays from 9 a.m.-5 p.m.
• Address: 2005-2 Fuse, Kashiwa City, Chiba
• Price: Free!
• Access: From JR Ueno Station, take the Joban Rapid Line and get off at JR Abiko Station. Go through the North Exit and hop on the Bando Bus which takes you to the park. 

Zama City Sunflower Field (Kanagawa)

© Photo by iStock: onosan

The furthest out on our list, but not to be missed, is Kanagawa’s Zama City Sunflower Field. Boasting 550,000 blooms in mid-August, this sunflower paradise is home to a Himawari Matsuri (Sunflower Festival) which runs between August 11 and 14th, 2023. The seemingly endless expanse of sunflowers contrasting against the blue summer sky is both a great photo opportunity and a wonderful respite from the city. There are often farmers selling fresh vegetables there, as well as refreshments during the festival to make your time in the sunshine more comfortable. Why not make it a weekend trip and catch these beauties at their prime?

• Hours: 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m.
• Address: Shindenjuku, Zama-shi, Kanagawa
• Price: Free!
• Access: Take the Odakyu Odawara Line and get off at Soubudai-mae Station. Take a bus directly to the festival.

Whether you are new to Japan’s seasonal bounty of blossoms or taking your first foray into the flower fields, these sunflower gardens and parks will certainly brighten your summer holidays.

As the school year hits the halfway mark in Japan and you’re looking for fun activities to entertain your little ones, why not consider bug-catching? Before you wince too much at the thought of seeking out, catching and potentially housing insects this summer, know that interest in insects and bug catching for children has a long history in Japan stretching back centuries. Still not convinced? Think about how capturing insects is at the root of one of the largest popular culture franchises in history: Pokemon.

© Photo by iStock: KeongDaGreat

Like many Japanese youth, Pokemon’s creator, Tajiri Satoshi, grew up catching bugs. As a game developer, Tajiri took the childhood joys of researching, strategizing and capturing insects and crafted the game that millions of us enjoy today. So, whether this is your first foray into your local greenery or you’re a seasoned bug hunter, read on to learn about four popular insects to add to your collection this summer!

Sawtooth Stag Beetles

© Photo by iStock: Geobacillus

Nokogiri kuwagata or sawtooth stag beetles are among some of the most sought-after insects during bug-catching season. While stag beetles come in hundreds of varieties, the sawtooth type has distinctive antler-like jaws that jut out from its reddish-dark brown body. Found throughout Japan, these beetles are valuable catches to add to your collection. Although males can measure over 70 millimeters long, they can also be less than half that length. Females tend to be much smaller at 20-40 millimeters with shorter jaws. 

Catching Tips:

Catch this beetle from June to the middle of July. When trying to hunt them down, check out wooded and mountainous areas. They are known to like kunugi (sawtooth oak) and konara (pin oak) trees, whose sap they enjoy drinking. Sawtooth stag beetles are nocturnal, meaning (unfortunately!) they are most active at night and early morning. Although bug catching in wooded areas at night is not recommended for little ones due to potential dangers, a proven way is to shine a bright light into tree hollows and roots to attract their attention. But, since they are also attracted to sources of light, you can always check vending machines and light posts in the wee hours to catch a glimpse of one.

Cicadas

© Photo by iStock: timltv

Few things mark the end of the rainy season and the beginning of a scorching summer in Japan more quintessentially than when the cacophonous sound of semi (cicadas) fill the air. Cicadas can be found all across Japan, from Hokkaido to Okinawa, come in several varieties and are a popular choice for bug catchers. 

Coming in at about 60-70 millimeters in length, kumazemi or bear cicadas are the largest in Japan. Active around the end of July and into September, these greenish-yellow insects with transparent wings can be found early to mid-morning and can be identified by their washa-washa-washa and sha-sha-sha sounds. 

While the large brown cicada or aburazemi, sized a little smaller at around 50-60 millimeters long, is quite common throughout Japan, China and Korea, its characteristically opaque wings make it a rare find in other parts of the world. Be on the lookout for this one in late August through to September.

The most often heard species and most represented in popular culture is the minmin cicada, named after its distinctive miin-min-min-miin sound. Measuring about 55-60 millimeters, these semi often hang out on tree trunks at the park from late July to early September.

Catching Tips:

Semi are found throughout the summer (although the exact timing depends on the type, as explained above) in wooded areas and can be caught using a bug-catching net. However, their wings and legs are fragile so be careful when catching and transferring them to a bug box. Also, cicadas do fly, but not while singing so a good time to catch one is mid-song!

Japanese Rhinoceros Beetles

© Photo by iStock: ruiruito

Another popular choice for bug catchers and collectors are kabutomushi (rhinoceros beetles). These reddish-brown insects are known for the unique y-shaped horns that sit atop male bodies, a feature that recalls the samurai helmets of the feudal era. Like many of the bugs that appear on this list, males are longer than their female counterparts, measuring up to 80 millimeters long compared to 60 millimeters, respectively. These beetles spend most of their lives underground and appear aboveground in their final months looking to mate.

Catching Tips:

Kabutomushi most enjoy chestnut, oak and gingko trees and are most active between June and August. To find them, check in areas with exposed sap or fallen leaves by these trees’ roots. Rhinoceros beetles are nocturnal so at night or early morning would be the best times to catch one. If you see one in a tree with a thin trunk, you can also shake or lightly kick the tree to knock the beetle down.

Praying Mantis

© Photo by iStock: SAIGLOBALNT

Found across Japan, but mainly in Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu, kamakiri (praying mantises) are known for their long bodies, which can grow to 90 millimeters for males and 105 millimeters for females, triangular-shaped heads and their folded forelegs which resemble the act of praying. However, there are slight differences between the types of mantises you’ll find in Japan. For example, those living in the south tend to be larger with males coming close to the size of females while mantises in northern areas are typically smaller. The color of their bodies will also differ with some being more green and others more brown.

Catching Tips:

All kamakiri are active in the later part of summer and into the autumn months. From July to October, find them in grassy or fielded areas and near riverbanks. Whether they are resting in the grass or perched on a branch, they can be caught with bare hands or nets and are known as a relatively easy catch. 

Bug-Catching Kit

© Photo by iStock: kohei_hara

Before you head out into nature in search of summer bugs, you’ll need to pick up some supplies, most of which are available at your local dollar shop. While a net, preferably one attached to the end of a long rod and a box or container to carry your catches are the absolute minimum you’ll need on your adventure, check out some of the following to up your bug-catching game!

• Gloves: Since you’ll sometimes have to lift rocks or move through bushes to chase down your catch, these may save you from scratches and cuts.
• Boots: For those heading down to the river, boots will certainly be handy to keep your feet dry as you step through water.
• Flashlight: This will be handy if you’re hunting at night or in the early morning. Not only will it help you see in dark areas, it may also attract some bugs your way!
• Trowel: Bugs like the earth and it can be useful to get digging to find some that have burrowed beneath.
• Sprays of all kinds: Ones to repel insects you don’t want to attract, such as mosquitoes and ticks, as well as sprays to help the itchiness in the event you do get bitten will be your best friends this summer.
• Cap or hat with a visor: With Japan’s summer sun overhead, it’s always a good idea to keep its rays out of your eyes and off your face.
• Water: Stay hydrated out there!

With these four bugs and your 100-yen store loot, you’re well on your way to starting a collection of critters. Next time you see some neighborhood kids armed with nets and boxes, take a look around and see if you can spot (or hear) one of the bugs featured on this list!

“I’m bored”, your kids whine on a scorching hot Japanese summer day, while you’re sitting underneath the air conditioner. Maybe you’re getting a little bored too from staying indoors all day. But what is there to do when the heat is just too unbearable? While it might not be the best time to take your family out to the park or go wandering along the streets of Tokyo, there is absolutely no better time than now to visit the water parks.

© Photo by iStock: kali9

Featuring extravagant pools, thrilling slides and rides, beautiful fountains, and amazing man-made waterfalls, a water park is the perfect summer outdoor day trip for both adults and kids. If you’re ready for a bit of adventure and a splash in the cool water, check out Savvy Tokyo’s five best water park picks in and around Tokyo. Grab your sunscreen and swimsuit and move away from the air conditioner…

Please note: tattoos, including fake ones, are not permitted at any of the water parks below. Wearing full-coverage swimwear is a way to get around this, however, you cannot reveal the ink at any point in time inside the park or else you may be asked to leave without a refund.

1. Yomiuri Land Water Amusement Island (WAI)

Get a taste of the South Pacific right in the middle of Tokyo! Considered one of the best water parks in Tokyo, escape the summer heat by surrounding yourself in crystal-clear water, beautiful palm trees and beach-like shorelines. From pools for a casual dip to full-size diving pools, there is something for everybody. Plus, give your children an unforgettable summer memory at Yomiuri Land WAI which also has three thrilling water slides. And for the adults, the pools at nighttime truly become your space as you can relax in the night pools and enjoy watching the sunset with calm music and mood lighting. To top it all, this mind-blowing experience is just 35 minutes from Shinjuku!

• Address: 4015-1 Yanokuchi, Inagi City, Tokyo, 206-8725
• Closest Station: Keio Yomiuriland Station (Keio Sagamihara Line)
• Ticket Price: Entry fee varies by day: Adult: ¥3,400-¥4,000 (night pool from 5:30 p.m. ¥2,200), junior and senior high school students: ¥2,700-¥3,200 (¥1,700), elementary school students, preschoolers aged 3-5 and senior citizens: ¥2,300-¥2,700 (¥1,700)
• Opening Hours: Jul. 1-Sep. 10, 2023 (Hours vary. Please check the website for more information.) 
• Website (English): https://www.yomiuriland.com/en/pool-wai/

2. Tokyo Summerland – Adventure Lagoon

Make a great family outing to remember and kick start your summer at one of Japan’s biggest, tropical theme water parks located just one hour away from central Tokyo. Indulge in pool paradise at this water park with its multiple outdoor pools, water slides, unique rides, fountains and man-made waterfalls. Featuring water playgrounds for those who want a bit of cool adventure on a hot day. There’s also no need to worry about the weather! Since the pool attractions are covered by a large dome, you can still have an amazing time even on a rainy day. At nighttime, the Adventure Lagoon is beautifully lit up meaning get your camera out and take multiple photos with different poses. Do it for the gram!

• Address: 600 Kamiyotsugi, Akiruno, Tokyo 197-0832
• Closest Station: Akigawa Station (Itsukaichi line)
• Ticket Price: Entry fee varies by day for one day pass: Adult: ¥2,600-¥5,200, middle school students ages (13-15):  ¥2,100-¥4,500, elementary school students ages (7-12): ¥1,500-¥3,700, infants/young children (ages 3+): ¥1,000-¥2,700
• Opening Hours: Jul. 1 -Sep. 24, 2023 (Hours vary. Please check the website for more information.) 
• Website (English): https://www.summerland.co.jp/english/

3. Oiso Prince Hotel – Oiso Long Beach

Many hot and sweaty Tokyoites find that traveling to Oiso Long Beach is completely worth the journey to deal with the heat and to have fun. Boasting a total of eight pools including Kids Water Paradise (slides) and Fountain Children Pool, this place is kid-friendly and particularly geared toward young families. Both adults and children will be satisfied with the water attractions such as the Wave Pool with its full-fledged waves and a Diving pool full of thrills. And if that’s not enough, there’s also a Whirlpool jet bath where you can enjoy the scent of the tide and feel the refreshing sea breeze. Oiso Long Beach is truly a place that offers more fun than you can handle!

• Address: 546 Kokufuhongo, Oiso-machi, Naka-gun, Kanagawa,  259-0193 
• Closest Station: Oiso Station (Tokaido line), a direct shuttle bus is available from the station.
• Ticket Price: Entry fee: Adult: ¥4,300 (from 2 p.m. ¥2,600), middle and high school students: ¥2,900 (¥1,900), elementary school students and senior citizens (aged 65+):  ¥2,300 (¥1,300), infants/preschoolers (ages 3+): ¥1,100 (¥700; free entry in July) 
• Opening Hours: Jul. 1-Sep. 10, 2023: 9:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m. (Jul. 1-7, Sep. 4-10: 10 a.m.-5 p.m.) 
• Website: https://www.princehotels.co.jp/pool/oiso/

4. Tobu Super Pool

For a guaranteed fun-packed family day trip, you can’t go wrong with visiting Tobu Zoo in Saitama Prefecture. Not only can you enjoy interacting with the animals at the zoo, but there is also a leisure pool complex (open only during the summer) which includes a pool with waves, a pool with slides and even a pool just for kids. Head to the “Jabu Jabu Adventure” area where you and your children can enjoy plenty of exhilarating attractions like the rotating slide. Also, don’t miss out on the bucket splash attraction where huge water-filled buckets will tip every five minutes! And when it’s time to regain your energy, have a delicious quick bite at the restaurant located in the Whirlpool area.

• Address: 425 Tsumetagaya, Shiraoka, Saitama 349-0222
• Closest Station: Tobu Dobutsu Koen Station (Tobu Skytree, Tobu Nikko, Tobu Isesaki lines)
• Ticket Price: Entry fee varies by day: Adult (18+): ¥3,400-¥3,900, middle and high school students (ages 12-17): ¥2,300-¥3,300, children (ages 3-11): ¥1,200-¥2,200, senior citizens (ages 60+): ¥2,100-¥3,100
• Opening Hours: Jul. 1-2, 8-9, 15-17 & 22-31; Aug. 1-31; Sep. 2-3, 9-10, 2023: 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. (last admission 3 p.m, last swim 4:30 p.m.)
• Website: https://www.tobuzoo.com/pool/

5. Seibuen Yuenchi Pool

© Photo by Seibuen Yuenchi Pool

Just 50 minutes from Shinjuku by train, have the time of your life with your family at the very popular Seibuen Yuenchi Pool. Open only during the summer, adults and children alike can enjoy the four spectacular pools including a wave pool, lazy river, ofune pool and children’s pool. Also, get a serious adrenaline rush on the unpredictable, exhilarating torrent slides with sharp curves and tremendous speed. For the foodies, have a taste of some Japanese summer foods such as yakisoba, somen, takoyaki while you take a mini break from the pool. Surrender yourself to the sweltering heat and get ready to have the best summer ever at Seibuen Yuenchi Pool! 

• Address: 2964 Yamaguchi, Tokorozawa, Saitama 359-1145
• Closest Station: Yuenchi-Nishi Station (Yamaguchi Line)
• Ticket Price: Pool entry: Adult: ¥2,900 (Pool and Leisure Park entry ¥4,900), child: ¥1,900 (¥3,600)
• Opening Hours: Jul. 14-Sep. 3, 2023: 9 a.m.-5 p.m.  
• Website: https://www.seibu-leisure.co.jp/amusementpark/pool/index.html

Do any of these water parks entice you to pack your swimsuits, jump into the pool and enjoy a splashy summer day out? Let us know which one and if you have any other water park recommendations in the comments section down below!

With mid to late autumn in Japan comes chilly breezes, a kaleidoscope of changing leaves and a glorious floral display. Hailing from Canada where snow quickly follows the magnificent fall leaves, autumnal flowers and flower festivals were a new pleasure when I first moved to Japan. Chief among these cool-weather beauties are roses, which bloom across the nation in spring and fall time.

Below, I introduce five rose gardens in the Tokyo area, each awash with vibrant colors and breathtaking fragrances that make roses a lovely symbol of Japan’s beautiful fall season.  

1. Keisei Rose Garden

© Photo by Keisei Rose Garden

Perhaps one of the furthest gardens on our list from Tokyo—one hour and 15 minutes from Shinjuku station or 50 minutes from Ueno station by train—the Keisei Rose Garden in Yachiyo, Chiba prefecture, is every bit worth the trip. With 1600 different varieties of roses, this garden opened in 1959 and has been winning global rose competitions ever since. Why not explore the cottage garden, where seasonal flowers and roses join in a landscape reminiscent of the English countryside? Or, for fans of the classic manga, The Rose of Versailles, check out the “Veru-Bara” terrace with roses representing the world of the manga.

• Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily (in Nov.)
• Address: 755 Owada Shinden, Yachiyo City, Chiba
• Price: Adults: ¥1200, and free for junior high schoolers and younger (in Nov.)
• Access: By train: Take the Tokyo Metro Tozai line (Rapid) and get off at Yachiyo Midorigaoka station; By bus: Get off at Keisei line Yachiyodai station and take a bus to the stop “Keisei Bara-en”. *Parking is available and easily accessible via highway

2. Kyu Furukawa Gardens

© Photo by Kyu Furukawa Gardens

Closer to home is the Kyu Furukawa Gardens which hosts a rose festival in the spring and fall. The western-style mansion and surrounding gardens were designed by Josiah Conder, an English architect whose teachings and work was an important influence on Tokyo’s modernization in the Meiji period. During the autumn rose festival, which runs from early October to mid-November, over 100 varieties of roses from 200 plants burst into flower. They also host a rose concert and events such as discovering the different fragrances of roses. If you want to avoid the rush that comes with the festival itself, some roses continue to bloom into early December as well, intermingling with the changing leaves in a colorful display.

• Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. (last entry 4:30 p.m.) daily (closed on year-end holidays)
• Address: 1-27-39 Nishigahara, Kita-ku, Tokyo
• Price: Adults: ¥150, Seniors: ¥70, and free for primary school children or younger and junior high school students living or attending school in Tokyo
• Access: Take the JR Keihin-tohoku line and get off at Kami-Nakasato station; Take the Tokyo Metro Namboku line and get off at Nishigahara station; Take the JR Yamanote line and get off at Komagome station. *No parking available

3. Jindai Botanical Gardens

© Photo by Jindai Botanical Gardens

Located in Chofu City, just a short train ride from Shinjuku station is the lush and beautiful Jindai Botanical Gardens. Officially opened in 1961, what is now referred to as the Jindai Botanical Gardens was originally a nursery for growing the various trees that line Tokyo city streets. To this day, the garden boasts an astounding 100,000 trees and 4800 plant species with some plants being preserved from pre-modern times. The Botanical Gardens are vast, covering several hectares of land, and are famous for having the largest sunken rose garden in Tokyo with 400 varieties of roses and 5200 bushes. The roses fully bloom twice a year, in the spring and fall, and include old to modern varieties with some must-see new species showcased in the international competition rose bed.

• Hours: 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. (last entry 4 p.m.) daily (closed on Mondays and year-end holidays)
• Address: 5-31-1 Jindaiji Motomachi, Chōfu City, Tokyo
• Price: Adults: ¥500, Seniors: ¥250, Junior high: ¥200, and free for primary school children and younger 
• Access: Take the JR Chuo line and get off at Mitaka Station, and then take the Odakyu bus towards Chofu Eki Kitaguchi, getting off at Jindai Shokubutsuen-mae

4. Yono Park

© Photo by VSA-itama-1710

Yono Park in Saitama City, less than an hour-long trip from Tokyo station, is famous for its wide array of gorgeous roses and cherry blossom trees. The park opened in 1877 and over its 145-year history has displayed an impressive 3000 roses from 180 species. Yono Park hosts a popular spring rose festival and when paired with cherry blossom viewing can become densely crowded with visitors. Luckily, during the fall period, the roses are similarly stunning, but the park is less congested, making it an excellent time to pay a visit. Another bonus of this park is its extensive play spaces and free admission making it a prime choice for families.

• Hours: Open 24 hours/day year-round
• Address: 1-1469-2 Honmachinishi, Chuo Ward, Saitama
• Price: Free!
• Access: By train: Take the JR Saikyo Line and get off at Yono Honmachi Station. The rose garden is approximately a 15-minute walk from the station. *It is recommended to travel to this park via public transport

5. Ikuta Ryokuchi Park

© Photo by Ikuta Ryokuchi Park

A half an hour’s train ride from Shinjuku station, the Ikuta Ryokuchi Park includes several attractions such as the city planetarium, art museum and wild bird sanctuary. The park’s Rose Garden, housing blooms in spring and fall, is much beloved in Kawasaki and was originally part of the Mukougaoka Amusement Park, open from 1927 to 2002. When the Amusement Park shut its doors, the citizens of Kawasaki insisted that the roses be saved and incorporated into the nearby Ikuta Ryokuchi Park. In the autumn, this garden showcases 2900 plants with 690 distinct varieties of roses from across the globe. The park is open all year round and in every season there are beautiful flowers to enjoy, such as irises, hydrangeas, camellias and azaleas, so it is worth a visit in all four seasons.

• Hours: 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m. daily (closed on Mondays and year-end holidays)
• Address: 7-1-4 Masugata, Tama Ward, Kawasaki City, Kanagawa
• Price: Free entry (Science Museum, Art Museum and Japan Open Air Folk House Museum have admission fees)
• Access: By train: Take the Odakyu line and get off at Mukougaoka-yuen station or take the JR Nambu line and get off at Noborito station. It’s roughly a 15-20 minute walk to the park from either station stop. *Parking available on site

Head to these gardens to get to know the stately beauty of Japan’s autumnal roses. Whether you are looking for a quick trip or a day immersed in blossoms, the gardens above are worth a spot on your busy fall itinerary.

Besides the requisite Takeshita Street in Harajuku and Sensoji’s Nakamise Dori (staples on pretty much every Tokyo itinerary), here are five lesser-known shopping streets in Tokyo. Each one has its own unique character, for a local’s-eye-view of the city.

1. Togoshi Ginza 

© Photo by Rika Hoffman

Under a sky devoid of power lines (having been removed in 2016), the charming Togoshi Ginza feels distant from the modern era and the swanky Ginza it borrowed its name from.

With shops cram-jammed full of miscellaneous items (known as zakka), from secondhand Le Creuset pots to pre-loved jewelry, Togoshi Ginza is a place of hidden treasures. The retroism even extends to the food and beverages, like Togoshi Ginza’s Milk Shop which sells Meiji milk and dairy products in classic glass bottles and even does home delivery within the Shinagawa ward.

© Photo by Rika Hoffman

After an afternoon of thumbing through old records and other bits and bobs from decades past, take a breather at Togoshi Hachiman Shrine, which has cozy couches as well as friendly and well-fed (no doubt a correlation there) shrine cats, tucked away in a residential area. 

• Where: 1-15-16 Togoshi, Shinagawa City, Tokyo
• Access: Directly outside Togoshi Ginza Station on the Tokyu Ikegami Line

2. Yanaka Ginza

© Photo by Rika Hoffman

Yet another shopping street that adopted the name “Ginza” (in hopes of attaining its namesake’s prosperity), Yanaka Ginza is an old-school Tokyo shotengai with its own affiliation to cats. There are seven lucky cat statues placed along the street; some in plain view, while others gaze over the shopping street silently—so realistic that one might even mistake them for the real thing. 

Back when stray cats started taking over the area, kitschy kitty-themed shops also made themselves at home in Yanaka Ginza. Now, souvenir shops and houseware stores beckon, promising goods both for cats and the people who love them. The feline obsession even extends to street food, like Yanaka Shippoya’s cat tail-shaped donuts with flavors such as banana cream and tora (tiger), which has stripes of cocoa and white chocolate. 

© Photo by Rika Hoffman

The famous Yuuyake Dandan (Sunset Staircase) is located at the mouth of the shopping street and offers a view of the shops below through Yanaka Ginza’s iconic archway. And the nearby Yanaka Cemetery, famous for its wide, cherry blossom-lined pathways and sprawling grounds,  is a peaceful place for a bike ride or stroll to help digest all the shotengai street foods that you no doubt indulged in.

• Where: 3-13-1 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo
• Access: 6 minute walk from JR Nippori Station west exit 

3. Nakano Sun Mall & Nakano Broadway

© Photo by Rika Hoffman

On a rainy day, Nakano is the place to take shelter while meandering along the covered shopping arcade Nakano Sun Mall and the adjoining shopping complex Nakano Broadway.

Starting out at the north exit of Nakano Station, the 224-meter-long Nakano Sun Mall houses restaurants, cafes, clothing stores and more. Right at the entrance from Nakano Station, you’ll find Oyakidokororefutei Nakano which sells warm-from-the-pan imagawayaki, a type of stuffed pancake that’s often filled with red bean or custard. Their sweet potato flavor is a favorite, with a melt-in-the-mouth filling that’s both hearty and autumnal, branded with a cheerful character in the shape of the main ingredient.

© Photo by Rika Hoffman

Where Nakano Sun Mall ends, Nakano Broadway begins. A collector’s paradise, the retro mall features shops selling manga, electronics and pop culture paraphernalia to rival Akihabara. Mandarake is one such prominent retailer with several stores in Nakano Broadway, each specializing in a different niche, from Gundam merchandise to cosplay.

For food, check out the basement floor of Nakano Sun Mall where the YouTube famous Daily Chico offers a tower of ice cream that’s eight scoops high, including flavors like ramune (Japanese soda), black sesame and sweet potato. On this level of Nakano Broadway, you’ll also find restaurants, takeout options and groceries. 

• Where: 5-63-3 Nakano, Nakano City, Tokyo
• Access: 1 minute walk from JR Nakano Station north exit

4. Ameya Yokocho

© Photo by Rika Hoffman

After getting its start as a black market in the years post World War II, now Ameya Yokocho (a.k.a. Ameyoko) is a bustling marketplace for everything from fresh seafood to dried spices to clothing to snacks and candy. Some say that Ameya Yokocho means “candy store alley,” while others say the “ame” in its name refers to “America.” Regardless, discount candy deals can still be found here alongside an abundance of camo-patterned gear and flashy sukajan (souvenir jackets).

© Photo by Rika Hoffman

The local restaurants and shops can’t contain the excitement and hubbub of Ameyoko, with streetside tables spilling out of izakayas, while revelers snack on portable morsels. Dining al fresco is the way to go here. To escape the crowds, we recommend picking up some items to go for a picnic spread at the neighboring Ueno Park.

• Where: 6-10 Ueno, Taito City, Tokyo
• Access: 4 minute walk from JR Ueno Station Shinobazu exit or 2 minute walk from JR Okachimachi Station north exit

5. Sugamo Jizo-Dori

© Photo by Rika Hoffman

I’ve been told I have the taste buds of an obaachan (granny)—maybe it’s my affinity for the sweet red bean paste anko—so it’s no wonder that Sugamo, the cheekily named “Harajuku for old ladies” holds such charm for me. Offering little-known snacks like nure senbei (literally “wet rice crackers”) from Raijindo and more traditional wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets) like the anko-stuffed shio daifuku (salted mochi) from Mizuno, Sugamo’s Jizo-Dori shopping street teems with good eats.

Along the way, you’ll find Togenuki Jizoson Koganji Temple, which is the go-to place to pray for relief from your ailments (togenuki meaning “thorn removal”). Also, keep an eye out for shops selling lucky red underwear—though we’re pretty sure you won’t miss these scarlet beacons!

• Where: 4-22-8 Sugamo, Toshima City, Tokyo
• Access: 3 minute walk from JR Sugamo Station

Full of charm, heart and tasty street food, discover the individual character of each of these Tokyo shopping streets; revisit them like old books and you’re sure to find even more to love.

For more than 20 years, Okinawa has nurtured a growing trend toward achieving sustainability. In a rapidly changing world that is still negotiating a pandemic, many Okinawans have been working to create initiatives that both engage tourists and enrich the local community and environment.

Protect and revive the coral reef

A large portion of the world’s coral reefs can be found in the Pacific Ocean surrounding the Okinawa archipelago. Here they support rich ecosystems for native marine life, create natural seawalls and absorb significant amounts of carbon dioxide. In Onna “Coral” Village on the west coast of the main island, a 30-kilometer long reef has for centuries supported local seafood and livelihoods.

Onna “Coral” Village on the west coast of Okinawa’s main island.

In 1998, due to a sudden rise in sea temperatures, almost 90% of the coral around Okinawa’s main island succumbed to bleaching. Shocked by this tragic loss, local fishermen resolved to save the reef by becoming coral farmers. By 2003, they succeeded in transplanting farm-raised coral into the sea. So far, they have transplanted more than 100,000 coral seedlings.

At Sango Batake in Yomitan, you can make an individual coral seedling, which is nurtured at the farm until it’s large enough to survive in the ocean. The mature coral is then transplanted into the sea, where it eventually spawns and repopulates the critically endangered reef. As responsible travelers, we can also protect the reefs by not touching living coral in the sea, using coral-friendly skin products and learning more about how best to protect the reefs.

Eat seasonal ‘longevity food’

Okinawa is famous as one of the world’s five “Blue Zones” of longevity, where more than 1,000 centenarians are still living relatively healthy, happy lives. These ageless islanders are surrounded by peaceful and abundant nature. They participate in a lively and supportive community, and most importantly — they eat a healthy diet.

Farm-to-table restaurant Emi no Mise offers Okinawan “longevity cooking.”

Former nutritionist and chef Emiko Kinjo was fascinated in particular by the prolific vegetable gardens of the village grandmothers, as well as the natural medicinal properties of local seasonal ingredients. She opened her own farm-to-table restaurant Emi no Mise in Ogimi to share the culture of Okinawan “longevity cooking” with visitors. By eating locally grown food, you can experience a fundamental part of Okinawa’s long-established healthy lifestyle, while helping to preserve the local food culture.

Safeguard traditional culture

In 1986, the few hundred residents of Taketomi in the Yaeyama Islands stood up to save their island from uncontrolled development by drafting the Taketomi Island Charter. This comprehensive charter encompasses issues ranging from land ownership to landscape preservation. It even uses locally grown and produced materials to make souvenirs.

Traditional Okinawa wooden houses with red-tiled roofs.

Now you, too, can walk along clean narrow streets paved with white coral sand, among limestone walls that surround traditional wooden houses with red-tiled roofs. (Please be aware, however, that Taketomi Island is still understandably cautious about welcoming tourists during the pandemic — so be sure to check the local situation before you make plans to visit.)

As young and youthful Okinawans work and play to preserve their culture and traditions, there are many ways you can join their trend toward sustainability. Engage in environmental preservation, enjoy the seasonal food harvest or explore the various unique aspects of Ryukyu culture.

While you’re visiting the outer islands of Okinawa, why not pick up a native three-stringed sanshin and learn how to play “Asadoya Yunta,” a folk song from Taketomi?

Want to lend a hand? Here’s how…

• You can contribute to Okinawa ’s sustainable islands.
• Plan a post-pandemic retreat in northern Okinawa.

For help planning your trip to Okinawa, here are some travel agencies to consult.

• The Art of Travel
• Beauty of Japan
• Ayabex
• Inside Japan
• True Japan Tour
• JumboTours

Note: Before traveling, please always check the latest government advice about your destination.

As we dream about our post-pandemic travels, personal health and safety remains a top priority. No matter what time of year travel does resume, Okinawa’s subtropical climate makes it an ideal place to take a peaceful and low-risk vacation.

Take an undisturbed ‘workation’ in a private villa

For a safe and productive working retreat, Okinawa has a wide range of private accommodations in secluded locations where you can set up an office while remaining close to nature. On the Motobu Peninsula, you can rent an entire villa with its own private garden surrounded by trees from Shinminka Villa.

Shinminka Villa has fully furnished lodgings based on traditional Okinawa folk houses.

Each villa is fully furnished with a deluxe kitchen and an outdoor barbecue, so you can shop for fresh produce at local food markets and cook to your heart’s content. Enjoy sharing the slow life with the local village community.

The newly built wooden buildings are modeled after traditional Okinawan minka (folk houses). These have been redesigned with contemporary architecture — the outer walls are completely transparent to give you a 360° view of your immediate surroundings, and by extension, an intimate connection with the natural environment.

Explore deep Ryukyu culture in Nakijin

The site of the late 13th century Nakijin Castle is one of the nine Gusuku Sites and Related Properties of the Kingdom of Ryukyu, which are collectively designated a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site, representing 500 years of Ryukyuan culture and history.

Nakijin Castle site.

The sprawling fortress of Nakijin Castle is a prime example of nozura-zumi, an ancient construction technique that piles rocks according to their natural shape in order to build strong walls. You can easily spend a half a day exploring the ruins, walking across the undulating walls as you admire the sweeping views of the surrounding forest and the sea beyond.

Hike through the primeval forests of Yanbaru

Yanbaru is northern Okinawa’s mountainous region of primeval forests and rare endemic wildlife. Among its native subtropical flora are epiphytic ferns and orchids, living fossil cycads, giant banyans, evergreen Itajii trees and the famous towering Okinawa Urajirogashi tree on Mount Ibudake.

The Yanbaru region has primeval forests and rare endemic wildlife.

Endemic species of fauna include the iconic Yanbaru kuina (Okinawa rail), Noguchi gera (Okinawa woodpecker), Ryukyu yamagame (Ryukyu black-breasted leaf turtle). Hike up to cloud forests on Mount Yonahadake, admire spectacular views from limestone cliffs overlooking Shioya Bay or follow a scenic trail leading to the 26-meter drop of Hiji Otaki Falls.

Discover the romance of Kouri Island

If limiting interaction with others while slow traveling remains a concern, consider renting a bicycle in Nago and going for a refreshing ride along the coast. Kouri Island is a charming  destination for lovers, featuring the timeless attraction of a coralline rock formation in the shape of a heart, which is also the setting of Okinawa’s own Adam and Eve legend.

Kouri Island is a charming destination for lovers.

From Nago, turn off Route 58 onto Yagaji Island, then continue across to Kouri Bridge, savoring each scenic minute of its 1,960-meter span over clear turquoise waters. On the other side, enjoy touring the coastline with more luscious sea views around Kouri Island’s 8-kilometer circumference.

The less populated, more wild region of northern Okinawa offers a variety of secluded retreats and safe activities for both a socially distanced workspace and a splendid vacation.

Want to lend a hand? Here’s how…

• You can contribute to Okinawa ’s sustainable islands.
• Plan a post-pandemic retreat in northern Okinawa.

For help planning your trip to Okinawa, here are some travel agencies to consult.

• The Art of Travel
• Beauty of Japan
• Ayabex
• Inside Japan
• True Japan Tour
• JumboTours

Note: Before traveling, please always check the latest government advice about your destination.

“I’m so sick of my own cooking!” sighed a girlfriend of mine in the middle of last year. 

Her outburst took me by surprise as she’s quite the chef. I get it, though — sometimes you just want to be served something on a fancy plate, be delighted and surprised and then relax to savor the whole experience. This especially true now, when most of us have been cooking at home perhaps a bit more often than we’d ideally like to. 

There have been fewer opportunities for gourmand adventures of late, so I have been stockpiling many of these meals in my mind. Some people have a bucket list, I have a plate list and when it comes to regional specialties, the city of Kobe and the tiny Kagawa Prefecture should definitely be on your plate list. So from unusual local delicacies to luxury beef, draw your chopsticks! Here’s what to try and where to go when you next visit those two mouth-watering gastronomic treasure troves. 

The journey begins: Kobe

A street market in Kobe’s Chinatown.

As one of the first ports in Japan to open to external trade at the start of the Meiji period in 1868, the city of Kobe developed as a fascinating mix of international influences, with streets that include colonial-style European residences as well as a lively Chinatown.

While this culturally eclectic city has many culinary delights to offer, there is one dish in particular that springs to mind: Kobe beef. 

Kobe beef

Renowned worldwide (and for a good reason), Kobe beef comes from Tajima cows that must be born, raised and slaughtered in Hyogo Prefecture at approved farms. In fact, Kobe beef has the strictest eligibility criteria in the world and each piece is carefully graded. I find the balance between the akami (red meat) and shimofuri (fat marbling) to be perfect, producing exquisitely tender meat and that melt-in-the-mouth experience. 

For a teppanyaki experience in which a chef will cook your Wagyu (Japanese cattle) beef on a grill before you, try Restaurant Kawamura, which lets you make reservations online up to three days in advance.

Onwards to Shodoshima

Olive trees in Kagawa Prefecture.

Next, hop on the Jumbo Ferry to Shodoshima in Kagawa Prefecture. Shodoshima is said to be one of the first islands born to the gods in the creation myth of Japan. I like to think it’s why there are so many delicious things packed into its just over 150-square-kilometer area. 

Kagawa olives

Perhaps the most famed of Shodoshima’s products because of their scarcity in Japan are its olives. Due to the island’s warm climate, olives have been successfully cultivated there for over a century. You can even visit the first site where they were grown — the Shodoshima Olive Park, complete with a Greek windmill, which is the ultimate photo spot for fans of the Studio Ghibli movie Kiki’s Delivery Service. Olive oil and pickled olives are sold at many shops, alongside various olive oil beauty products.

Olive-fed Wagyu beef

We can’t let Kobe claim all the beef glory or perhaps we just want another excuse to be gluttonous. Either way, the unique, authentic Olive Beef brand must be savored. The cows are fed a special diet supplemented with olive feed, which is made out of a leftover residue from pressing olives to make olive oil. This contributes to a clever system of circular agriculture, in which the manure from cows are used as fertilizer to grow the olive trees. 

Olive-fed Wagyu beef.

There are over 50 Olive Beef designated restaurants in Kagawa Prefecture where you can taste the best quality of this mouth-watering meat. Among those, stop by the Ohkido Hotel in Shodoshima, which offers a variety of 0live-fed beef dishes for lunch and dinner, or the Komame Shokudo where you can taste Olive Beef burgers. Steakhouse Ichigo in Takamatsu is also a must-visit spot for the more curious foodies — here, you can compare different parts of Olive Beef in one dish for a more affordable price. 

Yamaroku soy sauce

Surprisingly for such a tiny island, there are around 20 soy sauce breweries on Shodoshima. Stop by Yamaroku, run by its fifth-generation owner and housed in a 100-year-old building. The brewery hall contains around 40 two-meter high cedar barrels where the rich soy sauce is fermented for up to three years.

A pleasant surprise: Who would’ve thought that vanilla ice cream topped with soy sauce could be that good?

You can get a glimpse of the traditional process during a brewery tour (no reservation needed) and then round off your visit with vanilla ice cream topped with soy sauce (or a soy sauce pudding), adding irresistible caramel-like umami notes. 

Daggertooth-pike conger eel

I’m not someone who judges by looks, but hamo (dagger-tooth pike conger eel) could easily be the baddie in a Disney movie. Unfortunately for this creature, we humans have figured out that behind its fearsome looks is a fantastic taste and texture.

A Kagawa delicacy: Hamo-don is a cooked “Hamo” Daggertooth Pike Conger Eel on steamed rice.

This Shodoshima specialty is popular for its high levels of collagen, which is said to be good for the skin, but also goes well with alcohol, especially when deep-fried. Beauty and beer? There’s no real downside here. One popular restaurant to taste this local dish is Shimakatsu, which serves seafood lunch sets and multi-course dinners in tatami rooms.

Continue eating in Takamatsu

Hop back on the Jumbo Ferry to reach Takamatsu within an hour and a half. Takamatsu, the capital of Kagawa Prefecture, is renowned for the beautiful, 400-year-old Ritsurin Garden. It boasts all you could want from a quintessential Japanese garden including a traditional arched bridge over a tranquil pond reflecting sculpted trees. In short: it’s a great place for a stroll to work up an appetite for the next mission. 　　

Kagawa sanuki udon

Kagawa, previously known as Sanuki, lacked rainfall, making rice cultivation challenging, so people began using wheat, too. This gave rise to the popularity of udon, the wheat flour noodles most of us have grown fond of during our stay in Japan. White, fat and slightly springy, these noodles are silky to slurp and a local staple. In Kagawa, this local favorite can be eaten for breakfast as early as 6 a.m. at some stores. They are commonly served either in a hot broth often made from dried sardines or cold, beautifully coiled with a dipping sauce and sometimes an egg and spring onions. Simple bowls can be found for as little as ¥200 (the perfect excuse for eating at least two bowls a day).

A local staple: Sanuki udon is Kagawa’s soul food.

To get some hands-on experience, head to Sanuki Mengyo where you can try rolling out and cutting up some noodles yourself. The whole experience takes about 90 minutes. You can choose between enjoying your noodles hot or cold afterwards and perhaps even add a tempura platter on the side (because why not?). 

When it’s safe to travel again and you’re fed up with your own cooking, head down to Kobe and Kagawa. You’ll be pleasantly surprised and fully satisfied.

The Deets

Access to Kobe from Tokyo is about three hours by bullet train. From Kansai International Airport it’s about 30 minutes by Bay Shuttle high-speed boat or under two hours by train.

Access to Shodoshima /Takamatsu: The Jumbo Ferry departs four times a day from Kobe to Takamatsu and stops at Shodoshima twice a day.

• Kobe to Shodoshima: Roughly three hours
• Shodoshima to Takamatsu
• Kobe to Takamatsu: Around 4 hours 

For timetables and fares, please see the website. 

Restaurants and attractions 

• Restaurant Kawamura, 1524 Arise, Ikawadani-town, Nishi-ward, Kobe, Hyogo Prefecture (and other locations). Map 
• Shodoshima Olive Park, 1941-1 Nishimura-kou, Shodoshima-cho, Shozu-gun, Kagawa Prefecture. Map  
• Ohkido Hotel, 5165-216 Ko, Tonosho-cho, Shozu-gun, Kagawa Prefecture. Map
• Komame Shokudo, 1512-2 Nakayama, Shodoshima, Shozu-gun, Kagawa Prefecture. Map 
• Steakhouse Ichigo, 2306 Ota, Shimo-machi, Takamatsu, Kagawa Prefecture. Map 
• Yamaroku, 1607 Yasuda, Shodoshima, Shozu-gun, Kagawa Prefecture. Map  
• Ritsurin Garden, 1-20-16 Ritsurincho, Takamatsu, Kagawa Prefecture. Map 
• Shimakatsu, 267 Ko, Tonosho, Shozu-gun, Kagawa Prefecture. Map
• Sanuki Mengyo, 235-1 Nishihazemachi, Takamatsu, Kagawa Prefecture, Map. Other locations available in Kagawa, Kobe and Tokyo. For details on booking an udon-making experience, see here. 

For safe travel tips and national and regional measures in Japan to tackle the Covid-19 pandemic spread, please refer to the JNTO Coronavirus (COVID-19) advisory information page.

An old merchant town, Takehara achieved success during the Edo period (1603-1868) as one of Japan’s leading salt making and sake brewing towns. This Hiroshima Prefecture city is a fantastic destination for anyone interested in history, culture and nature—not to mention our main goal: the awfully cute rabbit island! 

Located in the south-central part of Hiroshima Prefecture, facing the picturesque Seto Inland Sea—known as the Mediterranean of Japan—it’s a great weekend getaway from all the stress and noise of central Tokyo. Follow us for a well-deserved historical but still cute getaway in Takehara.

A furry start: Okunoshima—Rabbit Island

From Takehara station, our first stop was Okunoshima—affectionately called Usagi Shima (literally, “Rabbit Island”). We reached the remote island after a short 20-minute ferry ride from Takehara Port on the Usagi no Omoide Ferry, an adorable looking ferry that is also the quickest way to the island. 

A lovely retro design

As soon as we stepped off the ferry and walked past the terminal, we were greeted by a welcoming party of cute furry rabbits. The bunnies aren’t afraid to approach visitors but let’s be honest: all they want is food. They are unfazed by humans and quite happy to eat straight from your hands. This place is definitely a must-see for any serious animal lover.

Cute, sleepy bunnies near the ferry terminal

However, the former fishing and agricultural island has a dark past. It was fortified in the 19th century to protect the area around the Seto Inland Sea. In 1929, The Imperial Japanese Army built a secret military facility for chemical weapon research and production on the island to produce poison gas. It was abandoned after World War II and today, Okunoshima is home to about a thousand rabbits. It’s said they were introduced to the island in 1971, where they have thrived in an environment with no natural predators such as cats or dogs. The rabbits can be found all over the island, roaming the forests and fields and wandering through the ruins covered in ivy, seeking food at their pleasure and being awfully cute. 

Make sure to pick up some rabbit food at Takehara Port before you get to the island as it’s dangerous to feed them any other food. It might be a good idea to stock up on a few bags because you will probably need more than you anticipated. We know we did! 

The island is a wonderful place to relax and de-stress with its rich nature, warm climate and scenic views of the stunning Seto Inland Sea. We recommend staying until sunset, as the purple mountains in the background and soft light shimmering on the water make for a stunning view. 

You can stay overnight at the Kyukamura Ohkunoshima, the only inn on the island. This multi-purpose resort hotel is one of many that are specifically built in scenic spots and national parks around Japan in order to provide guests with opportunities to get closer to nature and have fun with a variety of recreational activities. 

 

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It is a great chance to soak up the atmosphere of the island and see the rabbits when they are at their most active—early in the morning and in the evening. We were sad to leave our new bunny friends, but there was a lot more to see and do in Takehara. 

Back in time: Takehara Townscape Conservation Area

Leaving Okunoshima, we rode the ferry back to Takehara Port. From there, we took a short 20-minute walk to the Takehara Townscape Conservation Area. Takehara is known as the “Little Kyoto of Hiroshima” due to this beautifully preserved historic district, which is full of authentic traditional townhouses and merchant warehouses that date from the Edo period. 

It was now evening, as we enjoyed a stroll along the old streets of Takehara. The soft light of dusk was gently falling on the wooden houses with their latticework facades and fired clay roof tiles in the kawarabuki style—a delicate atmosphere. It almost felt like we had taken a step back in time to the age of geisha and samurai. This was a lovely time of day to explore the area with almost no one else around and we had the whole place to ourselves. 

Our hotel for the day was the Nipponia Hotel, a traditional Japanese accommodation located in the heart of the historic district. The goal of the hotel is to provide guests with a comfortable stay in a traditional style with modern amenities while they experience the townscape conservation area and enjoy the delicious local food. 

Our room was located in an old building that used to be a bank during the Meiji era. The historic structures from the original building erected in 1902 remain in place with the guest rooms maintaining the authentic atmosphere of its traditional roots. All the rooms even come with a luxurious hinoki (cypress) bath. It was a joy to relax in the wooden tub after all the walking—and petting—we had done that day. 

Bamboo & sake: a crafty afternoon

Fully refreshed after our relaxing stay at the Nipponia Hotel, we got up early the next day to take another look around the historic district and visit a few places. 

The first stop was the Machinami Takekobo Bamboo Craft Workshop. Located in a remodeled merchant’s warehouse just off Honmachi-dori—the main street—of the historic district, here you can try your hand at making some traditional bamboo crafts. One of the local experts, who has been involved in the workshop for over 40 years, helped us make a traditional bamboo pinwheel. Step by step he took us through the process of weaving the individual bamboo sticks together to create a masterpiece. After thanking our instructor and talking to some of the other master craftsmen and women in the workshop, we headed to our next destination. 

Tucked away along one of the smaller alleys in the historic district is the Fujii Shuzo Sake Brewery. It has been producing top-quality nihonshu (Japanese rice wine) since 1863, and has won many awards over its 150-year history. Fujii Shuzo uses natural local ingredients such as organically-grown rice and the town’s natural spring water to make their sake. The owner, who speaks fluent English, was able to carefully explain the traditional kimoto-zukuri brewing method they use to produce award-winning products as well as some tasting  (currently paused due to the coronavirus situation).

After learning all about nihonshu, we were feeling a little hungry and were glad to hear that there was a soba restaurant located inside the sake brewery. The restaurant, Tanizaki, uses the same clear natural spring water as the sake to create tasty, authentic handmade soba buckwheat noodles. A perfect pairing!

We ended our journey in Takehara by strolling its retro streets one last time with our pinwheel in hand, gently blowing in the wind. It was time to come back from our lovely and cute trip back in time.

Getting There

From Tokyo, take the bullet train to Fukuyama (3.5 hrs). From there, take the JR Sanyo line to Mihara station for a 35 min trip. Transfer to the JR Kure line for Hiro and get off at Takehara station, which is also a 35-min train ride.

The whole trip costs about ¥18,440.

Autumn is an ideal time to travel in Japan, and my friend Yuuka and I had been thinking of taking a weekend getaway trip. We wanted somewhere that combined traditional culture, unique sights, and chances for relaxation, all within easy reach of Tokyo. 

Although we hadn’t made up our minds yet, the hot spring resort town of Dogo Onsen in Matsuyama, Ehime Prefecture was a place we were considering. After all, it was one of the inspirations for Hayao Miyazaki’s award-winning anime Spirited Away. Then we attended a wonderful event in Tokyo called  “Flowers by Naked 2020 Matsuyama/Dogo Night”, featuring a cool new project with digital art in Dogo Onsen. We were both impressed and so it was settled—Dogo Onsen was the destination for our joshi tabi.

What’s joshi tabi? Glad you asked! It’s the Japanese equivalent of a “girls’ trip” and an extremely popular way for women to travel. A typical joshi tabi trip with girlfriends includes sightseeing, great food, and plenty of time for wandering around at leisure. Dogo Onsen ticked all these boxes and so much more!

The history of Dogo Onsen

Dating back some 3,000 years, Dogo Onsen is thought to be Japan’s oldest hot spring town and today, it’s a popular destination with both Japanese and international tourists alike. The centerpiece is the stately Dogo Onsen Honkan, a lovely wooden bathhouse built in 1894.

Adorning the roof of the bathhouse is a white egret, which plays a role in the region’s folklore. After some local people observed a bird bathing its injured leg for relief in some hot springs, they discovered the healing powers of the water. Today, Dōgo Onsen is one of Japan’s few onsen towns with hot spring water coming directly from the source, with no reheating or extra added water.

The town has come up with a dynamic event to connect local history with the modern age: “Dogo Reborn”

While the onsen culture is the main drawcard, there is plenty more to enjoy in the area, including photogenic temples, a shopping arcade with a retro vibe and delicious local cuisine. The town has come up with a dynamic event to connect local history with the modern age: “Dogo Reborn Project.” Yuuka and I got to see the best of both worlds during our trip.

Day One

Dogo Onsen is closer than you think!

It takes almost 1.5 hours to fly from Haneda to Matsuyama Airport, then getting to Dogo Onsen from there is a breeze. We boarded one of the limousine buses that depart several times each hour from the airport, and about 40 minutes later we arrived at Dogo Onsen Station. Our total travel time was well under three hours.

A five-minute walk through the Dogo Shopping Arcade brought us to our accommodation, the Yamatoya-Honten ryokan (Japanese inn). We were thrilled to discover that the hotel offers complimentary kimono for staying guests to borrow. Yuuka and I agreed that strolling around the streets of this onsen town in kimono would be the perfect extra touch! Even better, the kimono were easy for us to put on by ourselves. After choosing our favorites from the selection we were soon dressed up and ready to go.

We were feeling hungry by now so we stopped for lunch at Nikitatsuan, a Japanese-style restaurant serving a wide range of dishes, along with specialty sake and beer from their adjacent brewery shop. After a delicious meal, we dropped by the shop, which features exquisitely-packaged Nikitatsu brand sake and other drinks. We thought these would make great gifts for people back home (or for enjoying back in our rooms after a relaxing hot bath).

Charming local photo spots

Dolled up in our kimono, it was time to hit the town. One of Dogo Onsen’s charms is that you can walk practically everywhere! Our first stop was Yu-jinja Shrine. Two Japanese Shinto gods and the guardians of the hot springs are enshrined here, offering protection for the waters of Dogo Onsen. It’s said that whenever the hot springs stopped flowing in the past, they were restored after prayers were offered at the shrine. You can get a good view of the historic Dogo Onsen Honkan bathhouse from here, too. 

Next, we visited another well-known spot in the area, Enman-ji Temple. This colorful temple is said to be particularly lucky for those seeking a happy marriage and good health. 

Then it was on the “Sky Promenade” and Footbath. This scenic walkway affords panoramic views out over the town and, even better, there is an ashiyu or footbath at the top! It felt wonderful to sit there in the soft spring air while soaking our feet in the warm water. Yuuka and I agreed it would be well worth coming back in the evening to take in the night view.

Arrival of the Phoenix

After returning to the hotel to check-in and take a short rest, we headed back out to look around the Dogo Onsen Honkan. Conserving and repairing this historic building takes time and care, with major restoration work underway and expected to be completed by the end of 2024. 

Surprisingly, the bathhouse is still open during renovations for visitors to enjoy! This has served as the catalyst for the “Dogo Reborn Project” project and the introduction of some exciting new initiatives. The most notable of these is a tie-up with the late Osamu Tezuka’s manga “Hi no Tori, the Phoenix“. As a symbol of eternal life, the shining gold phoenix is the perfect metaphor for the renewal and rebirth of the Dogo Onsen Honkan.

While each section of the building is undergoing renovations, it is “wrapped” in huge canvases decorated with colorful murals. The scenes are from the specially-produced “Hi no Tori, the Phoenix: Dogo Onsen Chapter” anime series.

As a symbol of eternal life, the golden phoenix is the perfect metaphor for the renewal and rebirth of the Dogo Onsen Honkan

Evening was approaching, so we found a good spot to take in the Dogo Onsen Honkan Projection Mapping. This is what inspired us to take the trip here in the first place!

Projection mapping is a technique that turns everyday surfaces into video screens, and the bathhouse serves as a backdrop for this sound and light-based digital art. Currently screening is the “Hi no Tori, the Phoenix: Dōgo Onsen Chapter” series, featuring Tezuka’s iconic phoenix anime character interacting with well-known figures from the region’s history. 

Relaxing in style

After admiring the unique digital projections, we headed back to our ryokan for dinner. Japanese ryokan are well-known for their lavish dinners, which are as much an experience for the eyes as for the taste buds. As a vegetarian, it can sometimes be problematic to eat at an authentic ryokan, but I was delighted with my beautiful vegetarian dinner course, while Yuuka enjoyed the standard course. Everything was prepared with plenty of fresh local produce reflecting the season.

Of course, the main reason to come to Dogo Onsen is the hot springs themselves. Post-dinner is a great time to unwind in the area’s healing waters. Along with Dogo Onsen Honkan, there are various other baths on offer and I wanted to try out the Dogo Onsen Annex Asuka-no-Yu, which was built in 2017. This beautifully appointed bathhouse reflects Ehime’s culture and craftsmanship in its design and fittings. Soaking in the waters while taking in the ambiance at Asuka-no-Yu, I felt completely relaxed and ended the day refreshed in both mind and body. 

In addition to the public baths and rest area, the facility features five private rooms where you can relax with friends or family members. Each one is designed to celebrate a different theme inspired by a local legend. For an extra-special experience, you can also reserve the exclusive bath which is a replica of the Yushinden (the private bathing room for the imperial family located in the Honkan).

Day Two

Strolling near the station

After a leisurely breakfast at the hotel, we took a stroll around the Dogo Onsen Station area. Don’t miss the Dogo Shopping Arcade, which is full of quirky shops and cafes. It’s a great place to pick up a souvenir of your visit or gifts for family and friends. Since the arcade is fully covered, there’s no need to worry about the weather. 

Two more attractions right by the station are connected to Botchan, Natsume Soseki’s well-loved novel written in 1906. The story is based on the author’s own experiences of working as a teacher in Matsuyama. The Botchan Train is a cute little steam engine that runs between downtown Matsuyama and Dogo Onsen, while the Botchan Karakuri Clock comes to life every hour between 8 am and 10 pm, showing scenes from the novel. The design is based on the Dogo Onsen Honkan bathhouse, and both the clock and the train make for great photo ops.

We headed back to Tokyo with plenty of pictures and souvenirs from our relaxing trip. Dogo Onsen couldn’t have been a more perfect choice for our joshi tabi. Why not add it to your travel list? You and your girlfriends won’t regret it!

When pioneering Japanese mountaineer Junko Tabei—the first woman to reach the summit of Mt Everest—first visited Tokyo, Mt Mitake was the first mountain she chose to climb. Less crowded than Mt Takao, yet just as accessible, this majestic mountain is a must-hike!

A Family-Friendly Hike

Covid-19 has blown most of our 2020 hikes out the window. So when we had a chance, we masked up and set out on the Holiday Rapid Okutama to JR Mitake Station. We met up with one other family on the way and from JR Mitake Station took a short bus ride to Cable Car Bus Stop, just down the hill from Takimoto station—the base station of the Mitake Tozan Cable Car. 

Riding the Mitake Tozan Cable Car saved us the steep, unspectacular ascent of Mt Mitake, whooshing us up to Mitake-daira Observatory in six minutes, where we were delighted to see the surrounding mountains shrouded in mist! On the tables below the wisteria, we unpacked our overnight gear and had the pilgrims’ lodge we had booked for the night come to pick them up—a complimentary service offered to lodgers. Given that we were hiking with three kids under five, it’s one service that we were very grateful for. 

With lightened loads, we set off on the first part of our mountain adventure, taking a trail behind the shops through the rengeshouma (false anemone) conservation area to explore a shrine we had missed on previous hikes—産安社 (Ubuyasu Shrine) dedicated to safe childbirth.

After hugging the ancient trees at Ubuyasu Shrine, we hiked to the Tokyo-to Mitake Visitor Center, our destination for an early lunch. The Visitor Center staff gave us the latest trail conditions, and we appreciated its facilities including maps, bathrooms, potable water, displays on local flora and fauna, and a seating area for eating and conferences. 

After heavy rain the previous week, the Visitor Center Staff advised us that two steep trails had become treacherous; the stairs down to the Nanayono-no-taki Waterfall on the Rock Garden Trail and the ascent to Mt Otake. So we settled on a gentler trail bypassing that first waterfall of the Rock Garden Trail.

Then we set out towards the Rock Garden trailhead, a left turn partway up the shrine steps of Mitake Musashi Shrine.

Boulder-hopping!

The Rock Garden is a loop course in three main sections if you bypass the Nanayono Waterfall; a gentle slope down to a swift mountain stream, the Rock Garden section which crisscrosses the stream on strategically-placed boulders, and the ascent back to the Mitake Musashi Shrine via stairs and a ridgeline.

Our four-year-olds squealed in delight hopping across the rock garden stepping stones and were thrilled to find a huge frog. The visitor center website has this trail as a 2:30 hour hike, with kids in tow it took us just under 3 hours.

As we headed back through Mitake Village we noticed that all the eateries have closed early, so we skipped our hoped-for drink with a view at one of the many eateries in Mitake Village and wandered straight down to our lodgings for the night, Sanraku-so, a Buddhist temple-style shukubō (pilgrim’s inn) that has provided refuge to travelers since the 18th century.

Wild plants for dinner!

This was my first experience staying at a shukubō, and it was quite an experience indeed. Sanraku-so is famed for its meals of locally-sourced edible wild mountain plants and vegetables from its garden, so dinner and breakfast were the highlights of our stay. Using over 30 different ingredients for each meal, our plates were bursting with color. Our little ones were satisfied with their kid’s meals of Hamburg steaks. 

 

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Up to Mt Hinode

In the morning we set off for our second day of hiking. Conveniently, Sanraku Lodge is located on the first section of the trail to 日の出山 (Hinodesan) or Mt Hinode, whose kanji mean ‘sunrise mountain’. We meandered down the dirt trail through the forest to the trailhead to Mt Hinode, reaching the summit in just over an hour. We enjoyed our bento lunches—we paid a little extra to have the inn pack our lunches—overlooking stunning views across western Tokyo on one side, and back towards Mt Mitake with the Musashi Mitake Shrine peeking out at us from its summit. It was a thrill to see how far we had come, and our four-year-olds had hiked it all on their own two feet!

The descent to Tsurutsuru Onsen Hot Spring

The dirt trail down from Mt Hinode to Tsurutsuru Onsen had a few long sections of stairs as we walked down through the forest. At Fudoson Temple we reached a road which we followed for about 20 minutes to Tsurutsuru Onsen. With kids, it was a three-hour hike from the summit of Mt Hinode to the onsen—a four-hour hike in total—but somehow it felt much longer than the previous day’s hike. At the hot springs, we scrubbed off the mud and soaked our aches and pains away.

From Tsurutsuru Onsen we caught a Nishi Tokyo bus to Musashi-Itsukaichi Station for our train journey home. 

Invigorated by exercise and healthy food, our minds refreshed by a weekend in nature, we are already planning our next visit back to these mountains. I wonder which season we will visit this mountain next? And whether the conditions will be right to make it down to the Nanayono Falls or up to Mt Odake?

Savvy Tips

• Wear sturdy footwear. While the hike is suitable for beginners and kids, slippery moss on the stepping stones, steep drop-offs in places, and muddy sections after rain mean the right footwear is essential.
• Take plenty of cash, many establishments won’t accept credit.
• Front-load the hard stuff by doing the hike in reverse: take the train to Musashi-Itsukaichi Station, then the bus to Hinodeyama Toyamaguchi Bus Stop, walk 15 minutes to the trailhead at Fudoson Temple, and ascend Mt Hinode from there. That will leave the Rock Garden loop and the cable car for your second day—your knees will thank you on your easy-peasy cable car descent!

The Deets

When to go: This hike can be done year-round, including in midsummer—temperatures are much lower in this part of Tokyo, and the altitude and heavy forest canopy will keep you cool! 

Getting there: 

Hiking from Mt Mitake to Mt Hinode: take an 81-minute ride on the Holiday Rapid Okutama from JR Shinjuku Station to Mitake Station. 

Hiking from Mt Hinode to Mt Mitake, take a 69-minute ride on the Holiday Rapid Akigawa express from JR Shinjuku Station to Musashi-Itsukaichi Station. 

Both train lines depart Shinjuku coupled together thrice every weekend and holiday morning at 6:46 a.m., 7:44 a.m., and 8:19 a.m. Double-check you are on the correct half of the train from Hajima Station — the train decouples there with the Holiday Rapid Okutama continuing on the Ōme Line to Okutama, and the Holiday Rapid Akigawa continuing on to the Itsukaichi Line to Musashi-Itsukaichi.

More information: Tokyo-to Mitake Visitor Center, Mitakesan, Ome, Tokyo 198-0175